A Nice Cup of Tea by George Orwell
If you look up 'tea' in the first cookery book that comes to hand you will
probably find that it is unmentioned; or at most you will find a few lines of
sketchy instructions which give no ruling on several of the most important
points.
This is curious, not only because tea is one of the main stays of
civilization in this country, as well as in Eire, Australia and New Zealand,
but because the best manner of making it is the subject of violent disputes.
When I look through my own recipe for the perfect cup of tea, I find no
fewer than eleven outstanding points. On perhaps two of them there would be
pretty general agreement, but at least four others are acutely controversial.
Here are my own eleven rules, every one of which I regard as golden:
- First of all, one should use
Indian or Ceylonese tea. China tea has virtues which are not to be
despised nowadays — it is economical, and one can drink it without milk —
but there is not much stimulation in it. One does not feel wiser, braver
or more optimistic after drinking it. Anyone who has used that comforting
phrase 'a nice cup of tea' invariably means Indian tea.
- Secondly, tea should be made in
small quantities — that is, in a teapot. Tea out of an urn is always
tasteless, while army tea, made in a cauldron, tastes of grease and
whitewash. The teapot should be made of china or earthenware. Silver or
Britanniaware teapots produce inferior tea and enamel pots are worse;
though curiously enough a pewter teapot (a rarity nowadays) is not so bad.
- Thirdly, the pot should be
warmed beforehand. This is better done by placing it on the hob than by
the usual method of swilling it out with hot water.
- Fourthly, the tea should be
strong. For a pot holding a quart, if you are going to fill it nearly to
the brim, six heaped teaspoons would be about right. In a time of
rationing, this is not an idea that can be realized on every day of the
week, but I maintain that one strong cup of tea is better than twenty weak
ones. All true tea lovers not only like their tea strong, but like it a
little stronger with each year that passes — a fact which is recognized in
the extra ration issued to old-age pensioners.
- Fifthly, the tea should be put
straight into the pot. No strainers, muslin bags or other devices to
imprison the tea. In some countries teapots are fitted with little
dangling baskets under the spout to catch the stray leaves, which are
supposed to be harmful. Actually one can swallow tea-leaves in
considerable quantities without ill effect, and if the tea is not loose in
the pot it never infuses properly.
- Sixthly, one should take the
teapot to the kettle and not the other way about. The water should be
actually boiling at the moment of impact, which means that one should keep
it on the flame while one pours. Some people add that one should only use
water that has been freshly brought to the boil, but I have never noticed
that it makes any difference.
- Seventhly, after making the
tea, one should stir it, or better, give the pot a good shake, afterwards
allowing the leaves to settle.
- Eighthly, one should drink out
of a good breakfast cup — that is, the cylindrical type of cup, not the
flat, shallow type. The breakfast cup holds more, and with the other kind
one's tea is always half cold before one has well started on it.
- Ninthly, one should pour the
cream off the milk before using it for tea. Milk that is too creamy always
gives tea a sickly taste.
- Tenthly, one should pour tea
into the cup first. This is one of the most controversial points of all;
indeed in every family in Britain there are probably two schools of
thought on the subject. The milk-first school can bring forward some
fairly strong arguments, but I maintain that my own argument is
unanswerable. This is that, by putting the tea in first and stirring as
one pours, one can exactly regulate the amount of milk whereas one is
liable to put in too much milk if one does it the other way round.
- Lastly, tea — unless one is
drinking it in the Russian style — should be drunk without sugar. I
know very well that I am in a minority here. But still, how can you call
yourself a true tealover if you destroy the flavour of your tea by putting
sugar in it? It would be equally reasonable to put in pepper or salt. Tea
is meant to be bitter, just as beer is meant to be bitter. If you sweeten
it, you are no longer tasting the tea, you are merely tasting the sugar;
you could make a very similar drink by dissolving sugar in plain hot
water.
Some people would answer that they don't like tea in itself, that they only drink it in order to be warmed and stimulated, and they need sugar to take the taste away. To those misguided people I would say: Try drinking tea without sugar for, say, a fortnight and it is very unlikely that you will ever want to ruin your tea by sweetening it again.
These are not the only controversial points to arise in connexion with tea
drinking, but they are sufficient to show how subtilized the whole business has
become. There is also the mysterious social etiquette surrounding the teapot
(why is it considered vulgar to drink out of your saucer, for instance?) and
much might be written about the subsidiary uses of tealeaves, such as telling
fortunes, predicting the arrival of visitors, feeding rabbits, healing burns
and sweeping the carpet. It is worth paying attention to such details as
warming the pot and using water that is really boiling, so as to make quite
sure of wringing out of one's ration the twenty good, strong cups of that two
ounces, properly handled, ought to represent.
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